Daunia, villages of Foggiano: what to see and what to eat

You may be surprised by the dazzling color of the wheat fields, the scent of almond and orange trees in bloom, the blinding sun over the sea and the power of the small stone villages perched on the mountains. It's the magic of Daunieland very appreciated by the Greek settlers who gave it its name, a spur of Italy with the great plain and Sub-Apennine Mountains.

I have always traveled far and by many paths – from Via Appia Traiana, to the Francigenetranshumance, the routes of oil, wine and wheat – the Daunie it is history and stories that intertwine and become the pride of those who stay there. A cultural, landscape, gastronomic and oenological diversity of the entire territory, still rich in its authenticity.

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What to see in Daunia

Foggia, the capital of Daunia

Foggia this is the starting point. Favorites by Frederick IIwhich made it the imperial seat, was the city of terracesthe pickers of spontaneous local products, then sold house by house.

Even today at Rosati Marketin the street of the same name, we find wild vegetables, ciammaruchel (snails), I pilanghill (boiled corn cobs), prickly pears. It's worth taking a look Bistro Fatuat Corso Pietro Giannone (cell 320.02.18.522), to taste typical snacks and receive advice from its manager Adriano Ammannati, or at Chip shop in the centervia Diomède (cell. 389.18.53.620), for flakescrispy fried polenta flakes, appetizers ante litam.

The Gargano: Mattinata, Monte Sant'Angelo, Vico del Gargano and Carpino

Then we leave for the Gargano“the most varied mountain that one could imagine”, as he wrote in his Prose Daunié Giuseppe Ungaretti. Everything must be explored, but to immediately grasp its essence, it is enough to stop at Morning.

It is a village of white houses overlooking a plain full of olive, almond and citrus trees overlooking the sea. Its streets offer refreshments and typical products, such as stuffed wafers, cartelates and delicious lemon cake. of Changulars.

Here, between dry stone walls and sheep paths, the oil route passes: it is worth visiting one of the oil mills, like that of the sisters. Bisceglia (by reservation, oliodelgargano.it/frantoio). As you move forward, you can follow the old path which leads from the beach to the Daunian necropolis of Mount Saraceno, come to Mount Saint Angelo.

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This is the country with Rock Sanctuary of San Michele Arcangeloa UNESCO heritage site, an ancient place of worship and much more. Indeed, among the medieval streets of Junno district you can breathe in the smell of freshly baked bread. A delight to enjoy simply with oil and salt Moretti ovens Or Taronne.

Each village has its typical products. Like the paposciafocaccia bread stuffed with Vico del Garganoa Slow Food presidium, which invites us precisely to slowness, perhaps sitting at Café Pizzicato. But the musical tradition is also strong here. Overlooking the Lake Varanorefuge of herons and cormorants, Charm it is the heart of the Gargano tarantella: in August, it is a must Carpino Folk Festival.

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What to eat in Daunia

Now we leave the sea behind us. THE Sub-Apennines it opens with its soft bumps and treasures. Each village has a heart of old stones and lively small shops. HAS Pietramontecorvinojust outside the walls of the magnificent medieval quarter with the Doge's Palacethere are some craft brewery MontaltoOr Leonardo De Cristofaro will offer you mugs and snacks of local products: like the nogliapork salami or caciocavallo matured in caves.

Everything about these mountains takes you back to slow, simple, essential times. HAS Biccariin the naturalist area of Lake Pescarayou can spend the day in the Daunia Adventure Park sleep under the stars in a wooden tree house or in a transparent bubble (coopbiccari.it/bubble-room).

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Artisanal rigatoni and Faeto ham

Here is the consortium Lands of Biccaricreated by five young local farmers, produces excellent artisanal rigatoni, ranked best in Italy in 2018 by Red shrimp.

The neighbor Fétoone of the two communes of Daunia where Franco-Provençal is spoken (the other is San Vito), is on the other hand famous for black pork, a native breed of pig from which an exquisite ham is produced, to be enjoyed at Moreno restaurant-deli. It appears that the high quality of this product is at least partly attributable to the climatic characteristics of the valley. Célone Riverwhose power of water has been exploited since Antiquity to grind wheat.

Today, it is possible to visit a water mill still in operation, The Water Moleno of the Bridgeat the border Cervaro Riverwhose original structure dates back to the 16th century. It is located in the countryside of Bovinethe village with stone portals founded by the Daunians and which has come down to us with its fascinating Norman architecture. Here you can taste the desserts of Giannottiexcellent artisanal pastry.

From olive oil to wine

If it is true that all the Daunian villages deserve a stop, a Sant'Agata di Pugliamedieval village perched on a rocky outcrop like a nativity scene, it is one of the places that should not be missed: it is the Nova family oil millbuilt in the 16th century inside a specially excavated cave, active until 1927 and remained as it was then.

In the neighborhood Orsara instead, among the ancient buildings and cobbled streets, one of the last straw kilns still works, Bread and healthvia Caracciolo, which produces breads and focaccias made from local organic cereals, while herbal teas, spices, oils, essences and gin can be ordered from Zi Ming Herbs.

The tour is coming to an end, but there are still at least two must-see stops. The first is an announcement Ascoli Satrianoa village with very ancient origins, rich in archaeological sites, which it preserves in its Museum complex a spectacular trapezophore from the 4th century BC (polomusealeascolisatriano.blogspot.com). It is the monumental support for a table made up of two marble griffins tearing apart a doe. The piece was part of the funerary objects of a Daunian prince.

The other stop is a Luceracandidate for Italian Capital of Culture 2026. Still Ungaretti still in the Prose Daunié he wrote that upon seeing her, “it may happen that some of the most adventurous ghosts in history come and stand by your side.”

And indeed, sitting in front of a glass of There is Mmittereal red Cellar La Marchesaor taste the specialties ofAgricultural company La Motticella (paolopetrilli.it), it will be easy to think back to all the testimonies of Lucera's glorious past, sinceRoman amphitheater to the Swabian-Angevin fortressof Episcopal palace from Palazzo Nocelli, to the Gothic cathedral.

Wonders of Daunia that leave a deep mark. Because they know how to speak to the soul.

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