Ciociaria what to do between walks in nature and gastronomy

Trail riding is becoming more and more popular. According to the Ministry of Tourism, more than 60,000 people chose sustainable travel in 2023. A sharp increase of 22 percent compared to the previous year. Slow vacations are the big protagonist: you walk a lot Italyeven out of season. According to a report fromNational Tourism Agency (Enit) created in collaboration with Ipsos and presented last February at the Bit in Milan, almost 4 million tourists prefer this type of trip.

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What to see and do in Ciociaria

It's a slow way to touch a new, more hidden Italy, which is often combined with the possibility of discovering authentic traditions and flavors. Even more in the bucolic and very green neighborhood Ciociarie. Ancient and little-visited land, in the province of Frosinonewhich attracts with the incredible variety of ecosystems and the beauty of its virgin landscapes. A place where everyone can indulge in a slow pace in the middle of the surrounding woods and beech groves. Ernici Mountains. Here's what to do in Ciociaria.

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Rural landscape in the Amaseno Valley (Getty Images)

Nature walks

“Our itineraries are designed according to the level of training and curiosity of our guests, to whom we offer tailor-made proposals,” he explains. Maria Sordillihiking guide and owner of the b&b Il Melograno a Verolia town of farmers and, formerly, of nannies, so much so that it dedicated the Baliatic Museumwhich is located inside the Museum of Rural Civilizationa few steps from Mazzoli Square. “I organize meditation walks which involve the practice of forest bathing, but not only that. I also plan the sound bath with Tibetan and crystal bells, or yoga on the grassy plateau of the beech forest of Campoli meadow. You choose a route of three or seven kilometers that can reach up to 1,200 meters above sea level. And at dusk, you can even see fireflies.”

Maria also organizes urban hikes in search of ancient flavors and delicacies. From the famous Veroli bread, a homemade bread, the preparation of which is maintained by bakers like Angelique Baldassarra or by chefs like LAura of the Quattrociocchi from neo Gourmet restaurant Pane e Cicoria.

At the end of the walk, generally organized before sunset, visitors are blindfolded for a few meters, to ensure the effect of wonder at the sun plunging into the hills below. San Leucio. The upper and panoramic part of Veroli surrounded by megalithic walls, where the path ends.

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An overview of Veroli where several hikes start from (Getty Images)

Historical-naturalist itineraries

Simply take departmental road 15 to arrive in forty minutes by car Castro of the Volsciansin the middle of Sacco Valleywhere the municipal administration has traced some paths. For example In the footsteps of Memory, a historical-naturalistic circular route of approximately 12.5 kilometers (it.wikiloc.com).

“The starting point,” he explains Pasqualino Rossihostel owner with his wife Antonella Free range“this is generally the square below the San Fortress Rockwhere the monument to Mamma Ciociara is located, a sculpture with strong symbolic value that recalls the sacrifice of hundreds of women during the Second World War, masterfully frescoed by Moravian literature and the cinema of De Sica”.

On this route, far from mass tourism routes, you can visit farms where you can stock up on products. Like the famous buffalo mozzarella from La Stella Amaseno, very popular in the region, to be enjoyed only after dipping the package for a few minutes in hot water “to make it more flavorful”, as Pasqualino suggests.

From the Rocca, the view extends over the entire valley: it is no coincidence that this panoramic point is called “the balcony of the Ciociaria”. Comfortable shoes and a slow pace help you relax your body and mind and disconnect from your daily routine.

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A street in the medieval village of Castro dei Volsci (Getty)

What to eat in Ciociaria

Among the things to do in Ciociaria there is certainly the possibility of eating good food. Any advice? Before going up the stairs towards the old street called “he goes up” to reach the church of the Madonna della Paceyou can walk a hundred meters to have your first taste of sausages or coppa at the point of sale of the Casale Farm.

Breeding Salvina Lombardi with his son Fabrizio Garofali “It's higher than the store via Mount Rotondoand is located at seven hundred meters above sea level in the pastures of Ausoni Mountains Natural Park“, explains Salvina. “Anyone with good legs can visit it by starting from the store and walking along it. via Cimottea little over three kilometers of dirt road.” A pleasant detour. Orange zest, chili pepper and a little garlic – all without preservatives – are the natural ingredients of these sausages that sell out immediately.

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Bread and chicory bruschettas, kitchen and shop in Veroli

Sausages and other local products

Continuing south, or on the old road which connected Castro of the Volscians has Pastenanature is rich.

The bright yellow of the broom mixes with the green of the hornbeam bushes, the wild flowers enliven the forest of oaks, beeches and chestnuts while in the background the tip of the Mount Caruso.

After a kilometer of dirt road, we stop at The shepherdess by Antonella Rossi, specializing in pig farming – they make delicious sausages to vacuum pack for transport – and in the sale of cheeses from the friendly company Savona from Anagni, which produces a superlative caciocavallo.

There are no cars or traffic around, just the sounds of nature, with the opportunity for physical activity. outdoor and the pleasure of exchanging a sincere hello with those you meet along the way.

After a kilometer of hairpin turns and easy descents, another farm comes to the fore, that of Enrica De Giuli. “We can make our artisanal frankfurters to order, which are very different from cheap products,” he explains. “Inside, only the minced meat from our pigs.”

However, seasonal vegetables are always available: in April we stock up on tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini, peppers, eggplant. All with intense flavors, too often forgotten. Because here we cultivate the land and we love it. I really think about a better future.

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