If in many cities the walls constitute the border between the “inside” and the “outside”, a Lucca The defensive wall is the fulcrum around which life revolves. Twelve meters high and a promenade created at the top have transformed them into a suspended urban park. A world to be discovered slowly that hides another, secret one.
The walls of Lucca
The RI exhibition – Knowing the walls
In Lucca, everything happens between the “above” and the “below”. Between the walks on the walls and the underground paths, as they are called here: not simple pedestrian passages (the exits) that connect the historic center to the outside of the city, but historical-cultural itineraries, depositories of the secrets of a powerful work. that has helped to maintain the independence of Lucca for 700 years.
To enhance their value, the new permanent exhibition has been set up Recognize the walls in the underground tunnel of Santa Croce Bastionwhich will be followed by other installations in other areas of the belt.
The exhibition is a journey through time through images and drawings, an immersion in the secret heart of the city, with texts and videos that tell the construction phases of the fortification, from the Middle Ages to its completion in the Renaissance era, and its military uses, through four different points of the bastion: in the two galleries, in the tower and in the gunboat.
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Walk along the city walls
Back on the surface, here is thefortified ring just over four kilometres long to be covered on foot, running or by bike. On one side, the stands embrace the perimeter of the wall: an expanse of green lawn where, during the summer months, many Lucchese and tourists gather to picnic or rest.
On the other, you can admire some of the jewels of the medieval city: courtyards and terraces of private residences and former noble palaces, including the baroque garden of Pfanner Palace, work of Filippo Juvarra, with its ornamental flowers, large trees and lemon trees that accompany the procession of 18th century statues representing the divinities of Greek Olympus and the Four Seasons.
With a bit of luck, you can enjoy the view of the interior of the palace and the garden sitting on one of the two benches overlooking the walls, very sought after and almost always occupied.
The Botanical Garden of Lucca
The other symbolic place is there'Botanical gardenone of the charming city beautification projects launched in 1814 by Princess Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, sister of Napoleon, who dreamed among her dreams of making Lucca a little Paris.
After his flight, the project was interrupted, but in 1821 work resumed at the request of the new sovereign, Duchess Marie-Louise of Bourbon, former Queen of Etruria, regent on behalf of her son Carlo Ludovico.
The historic center of Lucca
As in the past, the walls still defend the historic center today. Inside the circle, life flows slowly. No cars or other motorized vehicles. There are also few bicycles, people move around mostly on foot.
Traffic slows down in front of the windows of old and new shops of all kinds, some with fascinating historical signs. There are different styles and materials, from Art Nouveau with floral decorations to classical with English figures, from glass to sheet metal, from wood to marble.
A pride for the city and a form of decoration, protected by a municipal ordinance that requires that valuable signs be preserved even after any change of destination. Thus, for example, while walking you discover an exterior sign that says: “Old and award-winning dye – L. Verciani Laundry“, but in the premises a stone's throw from Piazza San Francesco there is the trattoria The Patrons.
Historic ovens, shops and pastry chefs
Among the churches, squares and towers, this one stands proudly above them all. Guinigi Towerwith its 45 meters of height and seven holm oaks at the top. Finding your way through the tangle of streets and streets of the historic center is not difficult, a few landmarks are enough: Amphitheater Square to the northeast, Place Napoleon to the south, and the very central one Place Saint-Michelformer seat of the Roman forum, trade and silk.
From the Admiral's Suite Rocchi Palace14th century noble residence, now a charming B&B, one almost feels as if one is touching the marble statue of the Archangel Michael piercing the dragon with his sword on the façade of the church of San Michele in Foro.
A stone's throw from the b&b, a must-see is the historic Taddeucci Pastrycustodian of the recipe since 1881 Buccellatoa dessert made only with flour, sugar, anise and raisins. It is eaten fresh out of the oven, on its own, with butter and jam, or with cold meats.
After a few days, the “filino” (due to its baguette shape) dries slightly and is then soaked in milk, fried in a pan and sprinkled with sugar. “We Lucches say it's like a tax: it's never missing in our homes,” explains Marino Taddeucci, fifth-generation owner.
On the same street, the Steam oven Amedeo Giusti, opened by the Giusti family in the early 1900s, makes one of the most popular focaccias in Lucca and the queue outside the shop is proof of that (via Santa Lucia 18 Tel. 0583.49.62.85); but it's also worth a visit Casali oven, an institution in the city for 120 years (via Guinigi 32, tel. 0583.49.62.89).
In front of Giusti, theOld Prospero's Workshop still sells cereals, beans and flours in bulk, as well as DOP oil and other Luccan delicacies. Entering here, you feel the pleasure of waiting: Mr. Vincenzo, third generation of the Prospero family, treats each customer with extreme care and without haste. “I know many recipes for preparing excellent soups and I give culinary advice to those who ask me, but the truth is that I don't know how to cook!” he admits with a laugh.
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Artisan workshops to discover
Politeness and kindness are the quintessence of the Tuscan city. Qualities that have certainly inspired the projects of some women of Lucca. The artist and designer Emy Petrini In his studio space, he creates various objects, including large ones, such as nest chairs, chandeliers and frames, by weaving dry willow branches that he collects in the woods of Lucca: “I work in harmony with nature,” he explains, “an ephemeral force that obliges me to align myself with the rhythms of its seasons and guides my hands when I create.”
Also Patrizia Ricciheir to the Atelier of the same name founded by her father Pietro half a century ago in via Burlamacchi 32, she makes custom-made clothes by hand. Rather than closing her doors after the difficulties of the Covid period, she reinvented her profession: “Today, I share the large rooms of the 17th-century building where I have my tailor's workshop with other stylists; then I host presentations, readings and every third weekend of the month the event open to the public Artisans of the Workshop, which brings together around fifteen artisans.”
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He also deals with art and beauty Penelope's canvas (335.80.60.708). The association organizes loom weaving courses to keep alive the knowledge of an ancient craft that has made a large part of the city's fortune and to defend its historical value. Just as the walls have made Lucca unique for centuries.
